We made it to Tonga! The only constitutional monarchy in the Pacific! But how did it get that way?

Well, during the colonial period the expansionist nations of the world were treating Pacific islands like candy from a burst piñata. Tongans were concerned and held an assembly to decide if they should accept ‘protection’ from one of these foreign powers. Tongan leader George Tupou 1 convinced the group that Tonga should skip the middlemen to accept protection directly, and exclusively, from God Himself. This was written into the first set of Tongan laws and George became the first modern Tongan king. No earthly powers would mess with the Tonga/God power duo after that, and they’ve remained an independent monarchy to this day.

We cleared through Tongan customs at the northernmost port of Niuatoputapu, a volcanic island with a population of around 700 people. This island only sees a supply ship once per month. It seems like a quiet life.

On a trip to shore we had planned to walk a few kilometers to the small village of Hihifo, but as soon as we set off a truck pulled over to offer us a ride in the back. This was pretty exciting. I’ve always wanted to hitch a ride in the back of an old truck down a dusty road through the jungle. The experience could only have been enhanced by a crate full of chickens, or maybe a few taciturn locals, giving us a slow nod. For my kids the experience might have been enhanced if I stopped taking so many pictures.

The truck driver dropped us in front of a house shaped building with no outward indication of being a store. “Here’s the store”, he smiled.

There’s only one store on the island and it’s cash only. There’s no place to withdraw cash, so I guess the local economy just circulates the same old bills. We read that much of the Tongan economy is non monetary. Around 40% of GDP is money sent from relatives overseas.

Once in the village we walked around the few quiet blocks. Several people in their yards called us over to say hello and offer any assistance we might need. The kind wife of a Wesleyan minister asked us to wait while she fetched us some fresh watermelons from her garden.

We were chatting with this woman at the roadside when a rare vehicle appeared in the distance. Sarah and I were on the road shoulder, the kids just slightly back and standing on the road itself. As the vehicle approached the woman looked at the kids expectantly, and then scolded: “Get off the road!”. They jumped to action. The lady gave Sarah and I a perplexed look, do they have no survival skills whatsoever? Then it was right back to our pleasant conversation. The vehicle ambled by on the wide road with a big wave and smile from the driver. We were a little puzzled by this interaction.

We started walking back to the boat only to be picked up by another stranger. This would happen repeatedly in Tonga, the drivers were generous with rides, eager to chat, and quick to laugh.

A week later we were in the larger island group of Vava’u, and Sarah and West had accepted yet another free ride back from the gas station with a Tongan woman. Their chauffeur amused them the whole way with an ongoing critique of everyone on the road, delivered with laughter. “Oh Tongan people! Oh yeah, just back right up! Oh, you had to park there? Go ahead open your door! Tongan peop!… oh, that one was Chinese.”

They drove past two tourists walking on the road shoulder. “Oh take your time! Walk along, middle of the road, I can wait!”. West raised his arm to wave to Nyah and I, but Sarah slapped it down, disavowing any affiliation.

Our conclusion is that Tongan drivers feel ownership of a larger percentage of the road compared to North Americans. If you’re walking off to the side, they’ll pick you up. Tread on the road itself, and they will put you down.

After the 35 degree weather of the Samoas, the high twenties we found in Tonga felt amazing. The many protected bays of the Vava’u group were reminiscent of the BC coast. We heard from others that Tonga has been a lot busier with tourists in the past, but hasn’t quite bounced back yet after Covid, it felt quiet for us. It is a beautiful country.

Next stop Fiji!

And some photos…