In Port Hardy we hummed and hawed about going down the outside vs the inside of Vancouver Island, and it wasn’t until we were actually underway that we decided to go up to Bull Harbour “and just have a look”. Well, one thing led to another (good weather forecast, the sense of excitement jumping out into an unknown area) and we decided to head around. The feeling of camaraderie amongst the five boats in the anchorage was strong and the excitement was shared by all. We were also spoiled by some fisherman in the bay who gave us four huge Spring salmon steaks to fortify us for the journey and spoiled the kids by giving them each a package of liquorice.

At 9am the next day we cast off to catch slack tide at the Nahwitti Bar. To prepare for the infamous bar we stationed our best crewmember at the helm.

Everything was calm until we hit Cape Scott, then the outgoing current and small northwesterly swell hit the larger southeasterly swell that had built up from the past week’s winds and things got a little lumpy. Everyone felt a bit queasy, but no one threw up and after another hour and a half we were able to put in to Sea Otter Cove for the night.

In Sea Otter Cove we went for a good walk along the beach (with the dog) and had been back at the boat for less than an hour when wolves started howling all around. It was both eerie and amazing to sit in the fog and listen to them. Side note: Next time we head up the coast, we won’t bring the dog.

After Sea Otter Cove we made our way down to Winter Harbour and then around Brooks Peninsula. We had been planning to stay a night in Klaskish Inlet on the north side of Brooks Peninsula, but the sun and northwesterly wind were too good to pass up. So, we made our way to Columbia Cove on the south side instead.

The beach at Columbia Cove was fantastic, and we had it all to ourselves (the weather wasn’t bad either!)

From Columbia Cove we made a short hop through the fog to the Bunsby Islands and from there headed down to Walter’s Cove/Kyuquot. Tying up at the government dock in Walter’s Cove was free and a short walk led to a restaurant with both wifi and french fries!

After a stormy night at Walter’s Cove, complete with LOUD blasts of thunder, we headed south for Rugged Point.

We loved Rugged Point, but it was a bit too rolly and exposed for us to spend the night, so we headed up Kyuquot Sound and anchored in Petroglyph Cove. From there it was south to Nuchatlitz and then up to Tahsis at the head of Nootka Sound. Tahsis had clearly seen more prosperous times, but the people were friendly and the food was good. The marina let us use one of their vehicles. We had to rearrange their recycling a bit to fit everyone in, but there was no charge and no collateral required, they just handed us the keys.

From Tahsis we motored down Nootka Sound to Friendly Cove or Yuquot. It was here that Captain James Cook first set foot in British Columbia, on his ill-fated third voyage from Britain. Yuquot has a long and storied history, and it was a unique place to visit. You can walk up to the lighthouse and chat with the keeper, and, after asking permission and paying a fee, you can visit the church and village site.

After Yuquot we rounded Estevan Point and made our way up into Hesquiat Harbour. This is where Cougar Annie lived (she supposedly shot 62 cougar, 80 bears, and outlasted 4 husbands). We kept our eyes open for cougars, but maybe she took care of them all (we did see a few black bears though).

At the head of Hesquiat Harbour is Rae Basin, and from there a creek runs to Hesquiat Lake. We ran the rapids into the lake on the flood tide and rowed over to some nice rocks for a swim. After an hour or two, we figured we had waited long enough for the tide to have turned (it should have according to our tide tables!), but the flow in and out of the lake doesn’t really coincide with the tide, so we had to fight the current to get out. I scouted for the gentlest flow in the kayak, while Doug pushed the dinghy and the kids leaned over the bow on the lookout for shallow rocks. It took a while, but we made it out in time for dinner.

Next up was Hot Springs Cove (fantastic if you wait until after all the tour boats from Tofino are gone) and Sidney Inlet. We anchored in Young Bay and tried to row/hike up to Cecilia Lake. Supposedly there’s a trail, but we couldn’t find it and eventually gave up on bushwacking our way in.

From Young Bay we headed for Ahousat, but had to anchor up for part of the day on account of fog. Once we made it down to Ahousat, we stopped at the store (still run by Hugh Clark and his daughter, although for sale now) and then anchored in Matilda Inlet. The next morning we hiked out to Whitesands Beach while we waited for the fog to lift and then headed for the big smoke: Tofino.

We anchored off Tofino (not easy with the many boats, sandbars, and strong currents) and made our way into town. It was amazing! The sights, the sounds, the people, the ice cream! And wonder of wonders: A grocery store!!

After a fabulous afternoon and next morning in Tofino, we headed south again for Ucluelet. Ucluelet has a big public marina with reasonable moorage, so we stayed for two nights, enjoying the town, the playgrounds, and the showers. From Ucluelet we spent a night in the Broken Group of Islands and then headed for Bamfield.

From Bamfield it was a run down the Strait of Juan de Fuca, with stops in Port Renfrew, Sooke, and finally Victoria. In Victoria we celebrated our rounding by tying up under the Empress and living the inner harbour life for a few days. It was great, and a whole new take on a familiar city. Last but not least we headed home, catching the tide and a strong westerly wind out of Victoria and sailing back into the Gulf Islands.